A question for the collective.
I usually fix shields to figures before applying any paint. I feel that the metal to metal bond is more secure that way.
I am planning the approach to painting lots, and lots, of Mycenean spearmen. Tower shields and figure eight shields, and not much clothing on the figure. Should be straight forward.
But I'm wondering about the approach for affixing the shields. Should I paint the figures and the shields separately and affix the shields once all the painting is complete? Or affix the shields and then paint?
The vast majority of figures will be resin, but with a few metals.
I have always felt that gluing painted items to painted figures does not produce the strongest bond.
So, what is the collective opinion?
TIA
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Bruce FergusonI've always glued then painted, for the reasons you've outlined
Tyrone Snell-ScasbrookIf you are looking at painting separately then attaching shields. I personally blutac the joins to stop the issue with adhesiveness. Then remove and glue together.
Daniel WadeI've been painting then glueing together. I've only had one Ancient Briton fail and falloff but my Romans have had many come off before even leaving my painting area.
Andrew Cramptona small amount of tape on the connection points but might need a touch up later if you really want to attach the shields after painting
Dirk HeinsiusI do a mixture of both. If the shield in question is "exposed" (i.e. at the end of an extended arm, esp. if only gripped by the hand, then I glue before painting. If the shield is close to the body and has an entire arm to affix to, then I glue afterwards to make the painting easier.
For metal and resin figures, I use 5min Araldite (epoxy), plastics use standard plastic glue.
Ben VartokI paint then glue afterwards so I can get more paint on the figure without a shield in the way. Probably means I overpaint unseen areas but find it easier to push the brush around without the shield. I use a mix of standard and gel superglues which bond better than by themselves. Spears and Shields are going to pop off either by owner or in contact with the opposing forces.
Andrew BennettsI'm in the paint then glue club myself. As someone else has mentioned, pieces of blutack or similar to mask expected contact points on the figure and shield ensure enough bare metal for a decent bond. If necessary, a few scrapes with a craft knife can enlarge the bare area or even create a new area if required (or if you forget the blutack before undercoating - a problem that seems to be increasing with age)
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